Fashion Is Right Here

(Cincinnati Open Design Event (2012) - Althea Harper Spring 2013 Collection,)

FASHION has recently become one my latest hobbies and launched one of my improbable new business ventures (dxn couture fabrics). So, have I moved to New York? Have I been traveling abroad to London, Paris or Milan? No, I've actually been spending time in Indianapolis, Cincinnati, Dayton and Columbus around some of the most talented fashion professionals in the country. I have been amazed by the commitment and passion people here in the Midwest have for the industry of fashion, and just how much work and sacrifice actually goes into the creation of a collection, fashion show, boutique or magazine. When you look at a garment on a rack in the department store or evening gown at a party, you probably don't think about the inspiration it took to conceive it, the talent, time and money it took to construct it, the work it took to get others to believe in it and the resources & planning it took to produce it. Well, after my discussions over the last several months, I have a much greater appreciation and gratitude for the designers that work so diligently and begin a process that will eventually encompass so many other individuals and professions. I've also realized the real and potential economic effect fashion can have on the region. For example Columbus, Ohio employs more fashion designers than any other city in the country outside of New York and Los Angeles and the retail and distribution business there employs thousands. I think the business of fashion is often overlooked by people outside the industry even though, globally, fashion is a trillion dollar a year industry. Yes, that's trillion with a 't'. If you're skeptical, remember I'm not talking just high fashion. That number includes companies like Nike, GAP and Levi, as well. Fashion in every style contributes to that dollar figure and I'm sure every large and small city and town would like to share a percentage of that revenue. However, that won't happen without communities supporting and taking seriously the local initiatives and local fashion professionals, both emerging and established, in their area.

I think people who doubt the talent of local fashion professional sometimes forget that just like with other high-profile industries, such as film and music, even those that work in major fashion circles, often times come from the smallest cities and towns. Some of the popular Project Runway show's best designers have come right from this region, including, Althea Harper from Dayton, Ohio and Kelli Martin from Columbus, Ohio. Actress & Model, Toccara Jones, Singer & Model, Dominique Reighard and Designer and Model, Laura Kirkpatrick, all from Ohio and Kentucky, were selected from thousands of entries from across the country to compete on America's Next Top Model, and all have had continued success. Designers like Sonya Mills and models like Tameka Young from the Dayton have been chosen to show and walk in runway shows during New York Fashion Week. Indiana designers Marlene H' Couture and Berny Martin have gone global, showing internationally in places such as China and Paris, France. Each of these individuals may go on to bigger and better things, but they all share a common thread of having Midwest roots. Their dreams may have been born in cities devoid of skyscrapers, industry big-wigs and national magazines, but their accomplishments, none the less, are hitting huge heights.

So, what starts someone down the path of pursing a career in the fashion industry, whether it's as a designer, photographer, model, stylist, make-up artist (mua), hair stylist, writer, publisher, sketch artist, agent or merchandiser? (Didn't know there were that many professions involved in the fashion industry? You are not alone, and believe me the list goes on and on.) Now, complicate the question a bit and add the fact that the individuals I'm speaking of are not in a fashion capital and don't have direct access to a lot of the resources that come with living in those places. Working in the fashion industry from this part of the country has its disadvantages, but certainly has its advantages as well. Surprising to many and without the benefit of high fashion shopping districts and top name designers, inspiration still finds its way here. I asked around to some of the emerging and established professionals in my part of the Midwest just how that inspiration found them. Each one of them gave me a full article's worth of information, but I had to try to keep it brief. So, here's what they had to say, and I have to admit it was not quite what I expected.

"I was born to
do this."

(Amy Kirchen)

I asked several designers what exactly got them into fashion in the first place. Well, it seems the answer to this question had absolutely nothing to do with geography or becoming the next Coco Chanel, Giorgio Armani or Tom Ford. I heard basically the same answer time and time again. Cincinnati fashion designer & boutique owner, Amy Kirchen stated it simply by saying "I was born to do this." Also like Amy, many designers describe themselves as self taught and growing up with a strong passion for fashion with influences coming from not much further than their own households. Amy went on to start her own brick and mortar store for her Amy Kirchen brand designs a couple of years ago and hasn't looked back. She explained "I started out young in fashion and started creating my own pieces, taking garments apart and reconstructing them." and adding "I've always been in love with fashion." Coming from a background as an awkward little kid from the country with her own unique fashion sense, she tells the young ladies she mentors that "You can do anything you want to do... Nothing should stop you." She believes mentoring is important to the future generation of fashion designers, adding "If I would had someone like me 10 or 15 years ago, I couldn't even imagine what that would have done for me." Staying true to herself, Amy had no problem turning down offers to be in department stores, other boutiques and even New York Fashion Week, focusing instead on maintaining control of her brand and growing locally. While also dressing Miss USA contestants from Ohio and Michigan, Amy has become part of the Cincinnati Open Design Event (CODE) which this year partnered with AIGA to put on Cincinnati Design Week. This event will run through September 30th-October 5th with the Chaser finale show being held on October 5th. Amy is happy in her boutique and studio located in Milford, OH which she plans to turn into what may be the first full scale Fashion House in the Midwest. From Milford, which is just minutes from Cincinnati, she enjoys a large market for women's wear and custom designs, proving you can be successful in the fashion business while still remaining close to home.

"People just want
to create."

Over in Indiana, I spoke with Indianapolis fashion designer extraordinaire, Sheila Ferguson of Jealousy Jane Couture and models, Shyla Robson and Bo Taritas. I placed the the extraordinaire there because of the fact Sheila also does photography, drawing, painting and hair & make-up and I also heard something about some harmonica playing. I've found that these type of multi-talented individuals in the industry are not uncommon at all. When it came to Sheila's inspiration, she echoed similar reasons for jumping into fashion saying "I was born an artist." At an early age, she would take her mom's sewing scrap fabrics and fashion them into her own designs onto her siblings. Sheila's story, like many, could be told from anywhere in the country, but her story didn't end there. She continued learning skills from her mom and taking on projects such as creating her Halloween costumes and altering bridesmaid dresses. She maintained the passion for fashion through school and even made a dress on a friend from old sheets in her dorm room. That creation may be responsible for her becoming the designer she is today. It lead to her eventually finding her 'voice' after submitting it and being accepted into a competition she saw on Facebook for the Trashion Refashion show in Bloomington, IN. It was her first runway show and she wasn't sure if she would ever hit runway again, but knew she had found something that 'shook' her. Sheila doesn't always have a Spring and Fall collection but regularly designs. However, whether it's editorial concepts, swimwear or other projects, her designs still sometimes come together as runway show. One of those shows was Midwest Fashion Week which is one of the region's largest shows and she continues to participate in the Trashion Refashion show. With ongoing support, she continues to grow in a market which she considers to still be in its infancy.

(Sheila Ferguson, Bo Taritas and Shyla Robson)

Indianapolis Model Shyla Robson grew up deep in the heart of Texas on a poultry farm and admits she grew up as a tomboy and as country as it gets. She never much wore dresses but was a self professed flower child. She eventually moved to Indiana, still with her country roots intact, and joked how she initially parked her truck in the neighbor's yard because 'property's property.' Her mother put her into John Robert Powers modeling and acting school "to fix her kid into a lady" and her good looks and height soon had people pushing her to become a professional model. Shyla went to International Model & Talent Association (IMTA) in New York and was scouted by agencies from Japan and Europe. However, her mom wanted her to finish school, so she had to abandon a modeling career for a time. She slowly started to find her way back to modeling with small jobs here and there, and even in school was voted Most Likely To Be A Super-Model. Indiana has been able to provide her with catalog work and some runway shows, but she is ready to leave for a larger market where her looks, height and desire to work haute couture runways can be better served. Shyla says she hopes to sign with an agency in Chicago and is ready to handle the stress and lifestyle of being a high fashion model.

The thing that continues to jump out at me about Sheila's and everyone's story though is that they could happen anywhere. They just happen to be in markets that are still developing their fashion identity and not given recognition from the major outlets, yet. However, Sheila, Shyla and Bo explained that the advantages of being in an emerging fashion market is that people are thirsty for new things and the fact it's somewhere you can stand out. It's also a chance to give people first hand what they normally would only see on television or magazines. They continued by adding 'you make wonderful collaborations', and as Bo put it 'people just want to create.' The ladies explained how they see attitudes changing and cited the recent and first openly nude art show and other shows around the area that may not have been accepted just a fews years ago as examples.

"I was working
in a bank."

(Misti Leigh)

Now, not all designers are finding their inspiration out of the womb. Dayton, Ohio designer, Misti Leigh of iii Creations (pronounced Therd i) received her first Elle magazine from her mom 6 years ago and her interest in fashion began to grow from there. She began collecting fashion magazines like Vogue and Elle which she still maintains and collect today. However, until last year, Misti was a bank manager with no interest in fashion photography or design. Before she received that first magazine, Misti says "I was at a bank. I was managing US Bank at that time." She had begun doing wedding and lifestyle photography, but wanting to be different, soon moved to fashion photography and started iii Photography. Misti then discovered she had a desire to create the type of fashion pieces she was photographing. She didn't yet have the necessary sewing skills, so instead she began collecting and showing vintage pieces. Before long though, she decided to bring her own vision forth and produce her own pieces. After a few lessons from her mentor Ron Stephens, Misti went off on her own to sew her first collection, Black Romance, which showed last September. In her short time designing she has already created multiple collections, participated in and closed several fashion shows, had her work published in magazines and photographed a campaign for Popz Topz hats featuring singer John Legend. Further proving how far she has come so quickly, Misti once, under pressure of a deadline for a show and with motivation from her parents, created a line of 12 pieces in 12 days which she named RobCyn12. Another multi-talented individual, Misti not only is a designer and photographer but also a videographer and creator of fine art. She will have her first art collection showing this September during Downtown Dayton's Urban Nights at De'Lish Cafe. I asked Misti about the drawbacks of her location, and she felt as though she needs to market her creative designs outside the area to a wider audience. However, she also enjoys not being pressured in her small town and feeling like she has time to create. Designers like Misti are really changing the game by bringing and showing fashion to pockets of the Midwest that may be otherwise overlooked. Misti has a goal of bringing fashion more to the forefront in her hometown of Springfield, Ohio and is currently in the planning stages of projects to accomplish just that.

"Glam Chic"

Education and mentoring will play a large part in helping emerging markets establish strong, self sufficient fashion industries. Another Indianapolis area designer, Nikki Blaine of Nikki Blaine Couture, is also an adjunct instructor at Harrison College and a mentor. She mentioned one of the challenges she sees in the local fashion industry as the need for the involvement of more young people. Nikki, who began her career in fashion as a model, has been involved in fashion for many years and points to that challenge as being essential to the continuation and viability of the fashion business in the Midwest. Nikki has a boutique in Zionsville, IN and also features not only her own designs but other designers as well. She sees the fact that people are always interested in what's new and what's next as an advantage to her location in the Midwest. However, Nikki is looking forward to possibly relocating and taking her "Glam Chic" stylings to different areas of the country where she feels her designs can be better accepted. Nikki shares this dilemma with many other designers who's style has not yet been embraced by the at-large buying public in their city or town. The Indianapolis market is not devoid of accomplished designers and I have no doubt that she will be one of the next designers from the region to become nationally and world renowned and her designs internationally accepted.

"It is a matter of
igniting that interest..."

When these inspired fashion individuals sometimes need guidance and a steady curriculum to succeed, the many fashion schools in and out of the area play no small part in launching fashion careers. Locally, there are well-known schools such as the Columbus College of Art & Design (CCAD), College of Design, Architecture, Art & Planning (DAAP) in Cincinnati and the Fashion Design School at the Art Institute of Indianapolis. However, local students are also recruited to fashion design schools from across the country, such as, the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM) in Los Angeles, CA that recruits all across our region. Lynne Bartley (College Representative FIDM/ Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising and Community & Educational Affairs), who recruits students in our region, shared some of her insight on students aspiring to have a career in fashion.

Lynne began her role as a College Representative for FIDM in January due to the growing interest from Dayton and Cincinnati area students in pursuing creative careers. Lynne says she see interest at a young age. She says that "It is a matter of igniting that interest so that the student can grow personally and expand their abilities as they move into High School and begin exploring potential careers." There are several areas students can study in, but Lynne says that "Initially students express interest in areas that they know - Fashion Design and Merchandise Marketing. As we explain other career areas, we see them gravitate to ALL areas…both creative and business based fields such as Jewelry Design, Visual Communications and Beauty Industry Merchandise Marketing. We encourage students to use their talents as well as their interests when selecting a career. One of the top requests we receive from employers is for students in the field of Product Development, which blends the role of the Designer and the Buyer." Lynne agreed that attending fashion shows, more media attention on what’s happening locally in fashion, more outreach to students from locals who are established in the fashion world, etc. are great ways to help broaden the student's awareness of fashion as a career. In addition, Lynne added that "having the opportunity to shadow an industry professional is a fantastic way to learn about a specific career." She also said that "serving on a Teen Fashion Board, such as the Nordstrom’s BP Fashion Board allows a student to learn about the industry as well as collaborate with students from other area high schools." Lynne also said students can also visit the FIDM Fashion Club website, www.fashionclub.com and explore their creative talents with DIY projects. One of the benefits I see from attending these institutions is that returning graduates can provide an incentive for retailers to not only remain in the area but consider expansion, as well.

"Partnerships are fairly easy
to strike here."

(Tommy McClure)

Tommy McClure is the Founder & Executive Director for CMH Fashion Week in Columbus, Ohio and shared a lot of his insight of the fashion industry in the Columbus area and beyond. Tommy started out as a Director and Partner at Heyman Talent Agency before leaving to create a fashion week in Columbus where local, emerging & established designers could have a platform for their designs to be showcased. Tommy and I talked a lot about CMH Fashion Week but we also talked a lot about the business of fashion. Whether it's forming an LLC or writing off fabric expenses come tax time, Tommy talked about the importance of being in control of your brand and some of the ways CMH Fashion Week is helping designers in that area. He explained that in addition to the runways shows and other events CMH Fashion Week holds, it also host seminars that include diverse topics that include how to pitch to boutiques or department store buyers to learning a craft from an expert shoe-maker. Tommy recognized the need for designers to focus on strengthening their weak qualities and enhancing there better qualities, and doesn't want there to be a situation where a designers "fizzle out" because of lack of knowledge in any certain area.

As far as disadvantages and advantages of working in Columbus and the Midwest, Tommy echoed a lot of the similar problems as the other individuals I interviewed. He also stressed that even though Columbus gets a fair share of attention, it doesn't get nearly enough attention from the big buyers and magazines. That was a major challenge, but he cited several advantages as well. He started by listing some of the many retail giants based in Columbus, including, The Limited Brands, Lane Bryant, Abercrombie & Finch and Dress Barn that hire many designers right out of the local Columbus College of Art & Design (CCAD). He talked about how much of a plus it was for designers who are able to make a living from their passion while still be able to work on their own designs and craft. Tommy expounded on CCAD further by explaining how important of a resource it was to the city. He told me how excellent their senior show was each year and how it puts out really great designers. In his opinion, CCAD is also great at connecting grads to the various apparel employers in the area. He also talked about the top notch and world renowned photographers, videographers that not only do great work but also give their time and effort to further the fashion cause in his city. Boutiques like Brigade and Jinny that were just a short walk away from our interview location in the Short North area of Columbus were just another resource he mentioned that brought legitimacy to the area. These nationally known boutiques carry big name designers like Alexander Wang but also support local designers. He talked about how Columbus has a locally driven mindset that supports and keeps the fashion movement in Columbus moving forward. This infrastructure supports not only the fashion industry, but everything from grocers to musicians. Tommy added "partnerships are fairly easy to strike here." I see Columbus becoming a model for other cities to follow that want to grow their fashion industry into something special.

"...a different vibe in
every city."

(Damien Sheppard)

Another trait everyone I interviewed shared was Hustle. No designer may have exhibited this trait more than Columbus' own Damien Sheppard of Manufactured Products (MP). Damien, who designs ready to wear and custom apparel, got an early start as well. From the age of 6, he knew how to put clothes together. He started out making basketball jerseys before going to fashion design school in Virginia. In his time in the fashion business, he as encountered many challenges as well. He cited the fact that there is "a different vibe in every city" as an obstacle to getting his designs accepted. He's also encountered his share of nay-sayers that don't see a place for fashion designers or his designs in Columbus. Damien also commented on a problem I heard often repeated that there are no local manufacturing options for his clothing lines. Designers have to find options outside of their locale to get their collections produced on a large scale. However, Damien cited Columbus as being a great test market and that it can be "beautiful" if you are able to develop a following. Damien has managed to navigate the challenges and his long nights and long hours have already earned him spots on runway shows and garnered him plenty of attention from the fashion community. Damien will be showing his designs among some of Columbus' best designers this Fall during CMH Fashion Week. It's the designers like Damien that persevere through the up&downs that continue to become leaders in the industry.

"Once they realize...

they blossom."

(Debbie Teaters)

Other individuals have found their calling by using their sense of style to help the end-user navigate through the various designers and trends. Debbie Teeters started her boutique in Centerville, Ohio after seeing a need in both customer service and apparel selection. She had spent 18 years at Fox 45 television and decided to leave that behind to start what is now Joli Boutique Debbie went out and did her research on the industry and traveled the country and world to reach her goal of opening her own boutique. She trained under people with industry experience in places like Paris, France and became familiar with the European styles and trends. She opened the door to her boutique in 2002 and in that time has became a trusted source in Centerville and beyond for what is trendy, fashionable and suited for her individual customers. Sometimes it's just adding a piece at a time to their wardrobe or outfit to help them fit the latest fashion trend. This can be one of her challenges though, because sometimes she has to help her customers overcome the fear of being different and expressing themselves. Although, she says "once they realize and become comfortable with their own style, they blossom." That being a challenge that I think Debbie actually enjoys, but she also told me she enjoy the advantage of not being lost in the shuffle. Debbie and everyone I've interviewed has had the advantage of being one of the few or even only one that does what they do in their town. Now, as a buyer for her own boutique, Debbie still travels to showrooms all over the country and even accepts appointments from local designers hoping to be featured in her boutique. Every available space in her shop is filled with clothing and accessories that she carries from various designers.

Debbie didn't stop her involvement in the community with her boutique. She also started the Heart of Centerville which fosters growth and development of businesses in Centerville. Debbie Teaters and Joli Boutique are essential to the fashion movement in the Dayton/Centerville area and others just like her can continue to move the whole Midwest forward.

What's Next?

Consumers are becoming more savvy, aware and supportive. The numerous runway shows and boutiques are helping to create the mindset to look forward to next season instead of buying for right now. Annual fashion showcases, otherwise known as fashion weeks, have been organized in most medium and large cities around the Midwest and give designers a great platform to showcase their designs and sometimes launch a career. Midwest Fashion Week in Indianapolis, founded by, Catuo designer Berny Martin, is one of the longest running shows in the region. CMH Fashion Week in Columbus has been running with growing success for the last few years and Cincinnati Design Week looks to be big this year. There also numerous other fashion weeks in Cleveland, Detroit, Pittsburgh and Louisville just to name a few.

Fashion Magazines and blogs are springing up all over. Polina Osherov and the team at Pattern have put together a fantastic magazine in Indianapolis which will soon be distributed on newsstands in Hong Kong, Taiwan, Germany, Austria, Sao Paolo and the Netherlands, as well as, nationally. Other sources for fashion news and editorials include magazines such as UnZip Magazine, DE-FI(ance) and the style sections of Cincy Chic and Capital Style and more.

Local designers are finding the number of boutiques growing and becoming more receptive to their designs. Boutiques featuring International, National and Local designers are growing in number and stature across the region.

(DE-FI Launch Party - Fashion In The Mystique Garden)

Another promising trend is for cities to have their own fashion designer incubators that help to educate and promote the city's local designers. The Bindery in Indianapolis, the Dayton Emerging Fashion Incubator (DE-FI) started by former model Caressa Brown in Dayton, Ohio and the work by Midwest Fashion Week & CMH Fashion Week are great examples of this. The work of these organizations not only provide support for designers, but mean potential jobs for many other individuals as sales associates, writers, instructors and more. So, it is also important that city leaders invest time and resources to this growing industry to boost their own economies while providing another positive outlet for their city's creative minds.

I think less and less aspiring fashion professionals are not just dreaming of moving to New York or Los Angeles to pursue their dreams but are more and more strategizing on how to stay local and build their brand close to home. Technology has definitely played a large role in making this possible and with the growing list of local success stories, I expect the trend to continue. The emerging markets here in the Midwest will never rival places like New York or Paris but still may be able to provide the people with aspirations of a career in fashion with everything they need to succeed right outside their door. So, what's next is for fashion to continue to grow in our region in awareness, talent, respect and revenue. What's next is for consumers to believe and trust in the ability of their local designers when considering that next fashion purchase or custom design need. What's next is for the gaps in product and production needed by these fashion professionals to be filled. What's next is for city leaders to devote the time and resources in their local fashion professionals that will foster their growth as well as their local economy. What's next is for young people thinking of becoming a designer, model or fashion photographer to look no further than right outside their front door for their fashion inspiration or role models because Fashion Is Right Here.

Amy Kirchen Boutique

(Clifton, Ohio)